Linde Werdelin releases a bejeweled watch for men. I first noticed it on the wrist of Jorn Werdelin at this year's Baselworld watch show. They often play with designs as an experiment to see what might make the next cool limited edition piece. I wasn't sure if this was one of those experiments. A lot of the time, brand owners and CEOs like to produce exclusive pieces reserved just for them. A watch with black diamonds and a mother-of-pearl dial is precisely the type of thing that Jorn might produce just one of for himself to wear. We now learn that Linde Werdelin will produce 50 of them.
List price for the EHF Mk Zero is ,450 USD. For a hand-finished and tuned Swiss watch? Hell yes!
Thickness: 16.55 mm
You'll notice that all Bovet cases have a "ribbon style" crown protector. This is based on the brand's history of making pocket watches. The crown is also located at the 12 o'clock position. In chronograph form, this layout is often referred to as a "bull-head" style chronograph - as the pushers look like horns on the top of the case. How does all this effect wearability? Not as much as you'd think. The "ribbon" bends all the way down if necessary, making the watch feel almost identical to those with more traditional style lugs. It is possible that the watch sits a bit taller on the wrist though. I didn't find it to be at all a problem during the piece's extensive time on my wrist.
Unlike most diver's bezels, the one on the Omega Ploprof rotates in both directions. This makes it easier to set. Only the bezel can't be moved unless the vertically aligned pusher on the top right-hand part of the case is depressed. The original models had this piece in plastic, but Omega put a metal one with an orange aluminum ring around the pusher on the 1200M models. At first, having to press down the pusher and rotate the bezel ring with one hand is rather awkward. I worried about what this would be like with diving gloves on. While I never did test it with gloves, the process became simple rather fast, and now I don't mind or think about it at all. I also like to pretend that the pusher is a little antenna. For what? I don't know... let me have my nerdy fantasy.
Aside from these new Grand Prix Monaco de Historique watches, for me the famous modern gray watch is the Chanel J12 Chromatic (which I reviewed hands-on here last year). I have to agree that these gray Chopard watches probably go with a lot of outfits. I can't say that about the Chopard Mille Miglia GTXL Rossa Corsa I reviewed here - which while being cool, does beg for a red heavy day. In line with Chopard mantra, I can't really use the term gray without also saying anthracite - the tone which Chopard uses to describe the dials. Lighter gray is used for horizontal racing stripes which add a welcome dash to the dial.
The dial is nicely proportioned and features appropriately sized hands and markers, which should prove to be legible in a variety of conditions. The subdial at three (a 30 minute totalizer) and nine (a 12 hour totalizator) oddly remind me of the gauges seen in old Ford Mustangs and I really like the long hands and almost Bauhaus font used for the numbering. While this is a more modern style than the Tribute version of the Deep Sea, it is still a classic and rather reserved interpretation of the dive chronograph, especially for JLC. I suppose Jaeger-LeCoultre contrasts designs like the Deep Sea Chronograph with the more raucous and complex styling seen in parts of the AMVOX and Master Compressor lines (illustrated below).
The crystal is domed sapphire, which is super difficult to photograph. The caseback also includes a sapphire window to appreciate the movement:
It was not difficult to recognize Mr. Flav. The clock worn around the man's neck was one that I had recognized from numerous performances and videos. Indeed, he was a vintage clock lover such as myself, with this piece clearly being a 1980's original. I had to wonder where he acquired it. Such a device was extremely rare in that time, whereas comparatively today, large novelty-size clocks meant to be worn around one's neck are easily available at your local timepiece emporium (or so I hear).
OK, little tangent here. Say you are wearing your new timepiece acquisition and really proud of it and strutting around. Someone notices it and remarks, "hey, that is a cool watch. What is it?" Do brands really want you responding with "oh you like that? This here is the new Chronograph Three Counter Date Moon 45 1941 With Black Dial... watch. And it is all mine." Think that sounds absurd? I have literally come across a series of watches with naming schemes just like that. If you design a watch with a personality give it a name with at least some personality.
Aside from Zegg & Cerlati's watches is their rather impressive range of appendage adornments. Most notable is the finest cock ring I have ever seen. In my time I have viewed a lot of cock rings and this one is by far the most comfortable looking and luxurious. The color and poise of the cock done in yellow, rose, and white gold helps frame its bold stature and firm pose. "Signe du Coq" is truly an apt name for such a strong cock ring.
Matched to the case is the typical cool looking rubber strap you see on many King Power Hublot watches. The overall look and feel on this UNICO All Carbon is impressive. Hublot mixed a focus on the material with an in-house made movement for a truly unique timepiece. The UNICO All Carbon (ref. 701.QX.0140.RX) isn't a limited edition model, but will probably be produced in limited quantities for a couple of years.
This particular GG Gefica Hunter GMT Moon Phase watch is just that. The movement has the time (jumping hours and retrograde minutes) with a central red seconds hand. The lower dial has a moon phase indicator (one of those open ones that show the moon phase in both hemispheres), and a subsidiary 24 hour GMT hand. The GMT hand is adjusted using the large pusher on the left side of the case. There is an inset pusher to adjust the moon phase indicator.
Wait, isn't Buben & Zorweg that very high-end watch winder and safe maker? Well yes, and now they have a limited edition watch collection. The temptation for luxury brands to produce watches seems to be incredibly high. The only problem here is that you can't even use this One Perpetual Calendar watch with most (or all) of Buben & Zorweg watch winders. Why? Well because those are for automatics and this little guy is manually wound. UPDATE: Apparently Buben & Zorweg did recently release a link of crown-winders to keep manually wound watches powered up.
So the ISA movement gives you two time zones, the second of which is digital-only, a stopwatch and alarm. Nothing exotic here, though I'd love it if they added a countdown timer. The analog portion is synchronized to the digital, and there are separate bidirectional motors for each hand, so when the hands move out of the way it only takes 2-3 seconds. Quite fun to watch.
I am rather happy with how most of my amateur photographs of the Bovet Recital 0 came out. Though it wasn't easy. This little guy is a devil to photograph - as is the case with watches that have dials and parts which excessively play with the light. The piece is a beguiling watch with an open window into its guts but not its secrets. I refer to the effort required to decorate the movement parts. A key element to the meaning of high-end "Swiss Made" is that mechanical movement parts are highly-decorated and finished. Bridges and plates in this Bovet-produced manually-wound tourbillon movement don't come like that fresh out of a CNC milling machine. People handle the parts with care and polish them by hand. The time this can take varies, but it is an essential part of the six figure timepiece purchasing experience. You don't just get a well made movement, you get a movement that has been mulled over by an entire team.
Interior fabrics and materials are all chosen by the customer. That also goes for the layout of drawers, shelves, and watch winders. That makes sense. You selected what goes in the safe, so you select what the safe looks like. Despite the pretty paint job and lush interior, the overall shape and demeanor of the Chronos does not hide what it really is - a huge piece of armor. The squared shape of the safe along with its imposing stance sort of celebrates the rock-like notion of the product. Brown safes shy away from hiding the fact that they are safes. Their customers like it that way - and if you are in the market for a seriously secure safe, you might too. Prices for the Brown Chronos safes start at about ,000 - ,000. The pictured models, as well as most spec'd Chronos units cost about 0,000 each. Learn more about pricing here via Brown Safe Manufacturing. Have you reached the point where it is about time to get a safe? www.brownsafe.com
A couple of years ago, Vostok Europe came out with the Anchar. The name harkens back to the fastest submarine ever built, and yes it was Russian. Despite the removed nature of Vostok Europe's relationship with actual Russian watches, the brand is still very much thematically connected to mother Russia. To be frank, I wouldn't wear most of the Vostok Europe watches even though I like their designs. Does that sound strange? However, a few of their watches really speak to me. The Anchar is one of them. Since the collection's launch I was curious about the piece, and later getting it on the wrist, I am not disappointed. Also, the Anchar comes in a lot of styles, this piece is the reference 5105143 with a mostly black dial and bezel with gold-toned accents.